Reused Planters · Containers

Turn a Reclaimed Container into a Planting Project

Start with what the container used to be, then decide what it can safely grow.

Project · Wine-crate trough

Pine Wine-Crate Herb Trough

Material
1 pine wine crate
Size
~50 × 33 × 18 cm
Tools
Drill, 8 mm bit, stapler
Extras
Fabric liner, 4 pot feet
Time
2 h + drying
Filled wet
~20–25 kg
  1. Press every board and corner with a screwdriver tip. Soft, punky timber means rot has started — use the crate for dry storage instead.
  2. Hammer down or replace any proud nails; add a 20 mm screw beside each loose joint.
  3. Sand splinters by hand, outdoors, wearing a dust mask. Leave any printed winery branding if you like it.
  4. Oil the outside and end grain with an exterior wood oil; let it cure for the time on the tin.

Read the Container's History First

Every reclaimed container has a past, and that past decides its future. A biscuit tin that held shortbread is a very different starting point from a tin that held wood preserver, even if both look identical once the label is gone. Before you picture what will grow in it, spend a minute on three questions: what did it hold, how has it aged, and what is it made of?

Timber crates and boxes are usually untreated softwood. Check for oily stains, a chemical smell or green-tinged pressure-treated timber. Wooden pallets shipped internationally should carry the IPPC wheat-ear mark under the ISPM 15 standard; "HT" means heat treated and is the one you want, while "MB" means methyl bromide fumigation and is best avoided for planting. Older railway sleepers may be creosote-treated and should not hold edible crops.

Metal containers — tins, galvanised buckets, enamel bowls, colanders — are durable but conduct heat. On a south- or west-facing balcony a dark tin can cook shallow roots in a summer afternoon, so paint it a light colour or tuck it into the shade of bigger pots. Galvanised zinc is fine for ornamentals; line it if you grow herbs or salad.

Plastics are worth checking for the recycling resin code. Codes 2 (HDPE), 4 (LDPE) and 5 (PP) are the usual choices for growing; we avoid anything that held chemicals and anything that has turned chalky and brittle in sunlight. Ceramics should be glazed or labelled frost-resistant if they stay out over winter.

Drainage That Actually Drains

Most planter failures are drowning, not drought. Water needs a way out at the lowest point, so drill holes in the base itself rather than low on the sides. For containers up to about 30 cm across, three 6–8 mm holes are a sensible minimum; bigger troughs need more. The once-popular layer of gravel or crocks in the bottom does not improve drainage — guidance from the Royal Horticultural Society and soil scientists explains that it simply lifts the saturated zone higher into the root area. Use a free-draining compost instead.

On a balcony, drainage has a second audience: the people below. Stand every planter on a saucer or drip tray, water slowly, and empty trays after heavy rain. Raising the planter on pot feet lets air move underneath, which helps timber bases last far longer.

Liners and What Touches the Soil

For timber, a breathable fabric liner keeps compost off the wood while letting moisture escape. Avoid wrapping the inside completely in plastic sheet: water collects between plastic and timber and rots the box from inside. For metal containers holding edibles, a fabric grow bag or food-grade plastic pot dropped inside the decorative shell is the simplest solution — it also means you can lift the plant out to clean the container.

Exploded View: Crate Trough Layers

  1. Crate shell — sides and base, oiled outside
  2. Corner reinforcement — one 20 mm screw per loose joint
  3. Breathable fabric liner — stapled 2 cm below rim
  4. Drainage holes — five × 8 mm through base
  5. Pot feet or runners — air gap under base
  6. Drip tray — protects the balcony below

Weight and Placement

Wet compost can weigh close to a kilogram per litre, so a 30-litre trough quickly reaches the weight of a full suitcase. Balconies are designed with load limits that you cannot judge by eye. Keep heavier planters against the building wall where the structure is strongest, spread them out rather than clustering, and ask your building manager or landlord if you plan several large containers.

Lightweight décor vs structural questions. A few tins and a crate on the floor are lightweight décor. Planters hung over the outside of a railing, heavy troughs on brackets, or a balcony filled with large containers are structural questions that need permission and, where appropriate, assessment by a qualified professional. Never stand loose pots on railing tops or ledges.

Upkeep Calendar

WhenCheckAction
Weekly in summerDrainage, drip traysEmpty trays, check holes flow freely
SpringTimber, liner, feetRe-oil outside, refresh top 5 cm of compost
AutumnMetal rust, frost riskTouch up paint, move ceramics to shelter
Every 2–3 yearsWhole containerEmpty, inspect base for rot or rust-through
Finishing check: is it ready to plant?
  • Oil or paint fully cured, no tacky surface
  • No sharp edges or proud nails
  • Holes drilled in the base, not just the sides
  • Tray in place and planter sited before filling